Japan 2015: The last onsen

Onsen in Japan is a hot spring and/or public bath.  I had an onsen experience earlier in my Japan trip, and was looking forward to repeating it.

My son Tim and I had been riding our bikes for about 60 miles this day, our last travel day, and I was hot and sweaty.  We arrived in the town Tomakotomai around 3:00 PM, and our ferry wasn't scheduled to leave until 10:00PM, so we had some time to kill, and I was really in the mood for a bath.  But where could we go?

Tim searched his phone, but came up empty.  As we rode into town on the bike path/sidewalk, we rode up on two Americans in black pants, white short sleeve shirts, on mountain bikes.  I guessed they were missionaries from the LDS church -- correctly.  "How's it going?" one asked me.  "Oh, we're doing OK.  Say, do you know of any onsen around here where we could get cleaned up?"  "Uh, no, I don't."   "Well, thanks anyway."  And off we rode.

However, because of traffic lights, they caught up to us, and he proposed "How about if I ask a local person in Japanese if they know where one is?"  "Nah, no, you don't need to do that."

But by the next light, he had engaged a local fellow and was deep in conversation with him.   We stopped and hung out with his partner, making small talk.  Tim was impatient, but I held out hope this could actually get us somewhere.  As minutes ticked by, it got harder and harder to wait and keep up the small talk.  Finally he came back with a small scrap of paper, on which were written 6 Japanese characters.

"This is where you want to go.  Head down this road, and when it turns left, go straight.  Keep an eye out for these three characters; when you see them, you're there.  And if you get lost, show this to anyone at a convenience store and they'll point you in the right direction."

So, clutching that little scrap, we headed out.  The road did bend left, and we did go straight.  Block after block, I'm scanning every sign, but no match.  The road turns into an industrial part of town, and it's hard to imagine an onsen anywhere near here.  There is a bike path, but the road is 6 lanes wide at this point and all I'm seeing is warehouses.

Finally, I give up and stop at a gas station where there are two fellows painting the metal gutter around the perimeter of the station parking lot - every gas station has these.  I show one the scrap, and he recognizes it, but has no way to tell me where it is.  He speaks no English, I speak no Japanese.  His coworker, however, does have a small smattering of English, and he tells me to go down to the bridge, turn left, then left, then left again.  Progress!

We go down a few long blocks and eventually there IS a bridge to the left!  Over we go, and then left at the next street.  But then what?  Left immediately?  Don't know. Keep going!   So we go , and go , and go, and nothing.  Time to ask directions again, this time at a tire shop.  The guy helping me recognizes it and implies it's three roads down.  But what's a road?  We go three roads, turn left, and wind up at the back of a driving range.  No onsen in sight.

I'm beginning to lose hope, but I really want a shower and I think I'm close.  Tim is just hanging on, following me where ever I go, U turns and all.  We've gone at least two or three miles from where we started.

I see a drug store in a strip mall, and pop in. I show the slip to the cashier, who recognizes it but can't figure out how to tell me.  She gets someone else, who gets someone else, and he draws a map. We are nearly there! It's right around the corner, according to the map.

And when I turn the corner, there is a huge building.  I see people coming in and out with small bundles, likely clothing, and I guess we are there.  I show the paper to some guys who just showed up and then confirm:  We are here!

The onsen experience

Enter the onsen, take off your shoes.  Put shoes in a locker, along with a 100 yen coin as security for the key.  Then head over to the machine to buy a ticket (800 yen).  Now take that ticket and key to the front desk, where they trade you that key for another key, which goes to a larger locker, and a towel and washcloth. Now you can enter the locker room, disrobe, put all your stuff in the locker, and attach the key with a plastic spring loop to your wrist.

Head over to the shower room, sit on a stool, and get clean.  Pump bottles of shampoo, body soap, and conditioner are available.  Handheld shower, with a lever to give you 10-15 seconds of water, and soon you are clean.

Now feel free to partake of the hot springs, pools, tubs, jetted tubs, outside pool, as you wish.  Getting too hot? Sit outside or dip into the 60 degree tub.   This onsen's outside pool was covered with little rubber duckies. I thought it was charming.

When you've soaked enough, head back to the shower stool to rinse off, then get dressed, dry your hair, and you feel like a million bucks!    Take the locker key back to the front desk, trade for your shoe key, unlock your shoes, get your 100 yen coin back.

Best 800 yen I ever spent!

I wish they had onsen in Seattle.